Photos of Varanasi, India – The Holiest City

Riding in the taxi from the airport my driver weaved through traffic, repeatedly honking his horn. All I could do was sit back and watch the sea of humanity unfold. Needless to say, I was excited! I’d been wanting to visit and take photos in Varanasi, India for a long time, and that time had finally come.

I was visiting solo for ten days, anxious but ready to explore its history, focus on my photography, and learn more about this ancient holy city. Everyone has heard of Varanasi and the ghats, right?

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A thin old man in an orange doti climbs the stairs of a temple in Varnasi, India

It’s likely the most bizarre place you can visit as a traveler. Also known as Benares or Kashi (City of Light) – Varanasi is an important holy site for Hindus, Jains, and Buddhists.

Located in northern India within the state of Uttar Pradesh, it’s the most sacred city in the country. Situated along the banks of the mighty Ganges River, in fact, it’s one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. The famed American author Mark Twain once said:

Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.

The story goes that the Hindu god Shiva founded Varanasi by dropping the head of another god thereafter an intense battle. Buddha himself is also believed to have visited sometime around 500 BC after he achieved enlightenment, he shared his newfound wisdom in his first sermon at nearby Sarnath.

Why go to Varanasi?

Varanasi attracts people from all over the world, an eclectic mix of pilgrims, photographers, the dying and their grieving relatives, scam artists, gurus, vagabonds, and spiritual tourists.

Unlike the Western world, you can get up close and personal with death here. Unfiltered and raw.

This is India in its most intense form. Hindus believe that death in this city will lead to salvation. It’s estimated that over 70,000 bodies are cremated annually. Funeral pyres are burning all day every day.

If a person’s ashes are laid in the Ganges in Varanasi, it is believed that their soul will be transported to the heavens and they will escape samsara the cycle of rebirth. In a culture that believes in reincarnation, this transcendent state is called moksha. The ultimate right of passage for anyone.

This is a collection of my favorite photos from Varanasi, India…

It is a strange city where you can feel like a dweller and an alien at the same time. It is ancient, modern, progressive, and sometimes regressive, all at once. -Richa Chadda

Boat ride on the Ganges river in Varanasi near the burning ghat — A morning boat ride near the Manikarnika Ghat. Cremations are performed here 24/7/365.

Sadhu covers himself in powder at sunrise along the ghats of Varanasi — A sadhu covers himself with ash during a morning ritual along the banks of the Ganges River.

Baba Sadhu praying at sunrise in varanasi india — A sunrise prayer is offered to Ganga Ma (Mother Ganges).

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A man carries a golden carafe of holy water from the Ganges River in Varanasi, India — A man carries water from the Ganges back into town in a gold carafe.

Bhonsale ghat in Varanasi, India in Uttar Pradesh — A view of the Bhonsale Ghat from a boat.

A baby calf in Varanasi India near an alley door — A young calf waits outside of a temple door. Cows are an object of veneration in the Hindu religion.

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A man bathes in the Ganges at sunrise in Kashi — A man bathes during a serene moment shortly after sunrise.

River view of boats and the ghats along the Ganges in Varanasi, India — The Ganga attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year from all across India.

A Sadhu along the ghats of Varanasi smoking marijuana — A baba smoking cannabis. It’s believed by many that Shiva used it to relax and to focus on meditation.

A rickshawala sits on a trishaw in Varanasi — A portrait of a Rickshawala

A man walks down a colorful alleyway in Varanasi India — It’s easy to get lost in the maze of alleys, but that’s half the fun of wandering around.

A man mixes a lassi at the Blue Lassi Shop in Banares — A man churns a lassi made with creamy buffalo milk, a must-try while in the city.

A chanting funeral procession of men carry a body to the burning ghats in Varanasi — Men carrying the body of a deceased woman pass by a bull on their way to a cremation ceremony.

A view behind the Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi, India — Behind the Manikarnika Ghat lies the wood sold and used for the hundreds of daily cremations.

A young mourner in white clothing near the Varanasi ghats — A young boy who came to Varanasi to attend a cremation, wearing white to symbolize purity.

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A local Hindu man applies tilak to his forehead at a temple in Varanasi — A Hindu Brahmin man applies tilaka to his forehead before the start of his day.

An old blue and green gate in Varanasi, India — Varanasi is full of colorful doors to photograph and admire.

A sinking temple along the ghats near the Ganges in Varanasi — The Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple is sinking and above water only during the summer months.

Young Brahmin boys at the Nepalese temple in Varanasi, India Uttar Pradesh — These boys are Brahmins, the caste of which Hindu priests are drawn.

A young Muslim boy buys mangoes in Varanasi, India — A boy asks his father how many mangoes to buy in the Muslim quarter.

A young man carries chai cups in a basket on his head in Banares, India — A boy carries clay chai cups through the galis of the historic district.

A man leans on a bike next to marigolds at Phool Mandi market in Varanasi, India — A portrait of a cyclist and marigold salesman at the Phool Mandi flower market.

A bull sits in front of a red temple near the ghats of Varanasi, India — Face to face with a bull at the entrance of a temple.

An elder Brahmin man sits near his door in Varanasi, India — A portrait of a Brahmin near Harishchandra Ghat.

A hot cup of chai and a jalebi for breakfast in India — A hot cup of chai and a jalebi are common breakfast items in Varanasi.

Views from the top of Bhonsale Ghat overlooking the Ganges River — Looking out from the top of Bhonsale Ghat.

A portrait of local man in the galis of Varanasi, India — Local man near Hanuman Ghat.

A man rolls Banarasi paan in Varanasi, India — Banarasi paan is a tasty concoction of betel leaf and areca nut, dried coconut, tobacco, and cloves.

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A woman looks into our tuk tuk in Varanasi, India — Curious onlookers peer into our tuk-tuk.

A hand painted tea shop sign in India — Chai shop sign at Man Mandir Ghat.

A portrait of a local Sikh man at a flower market in Varanasi, India — A friendly Sikh man at the Phool Mandi flower market.

An old cracking and crumbling door in Varanasi, India Uttar Pradesh — Throughout its history how many people must’ve passed through this old door?

A resting baba laying down in the galis of historic Varanasi — Babaji takes a nap in the historic district.

Nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony at Dashashwamedh ghat in Varanasi, India — The nightly aarti ceremony on Dashashwamedh Ghat offering fire to the goddess Ganga

Conclusion

Varanasi is a place I’ll never forget. A highly intoxicating destination that is as equally alluring as it is repulsive. I typically went out by 6:30am to wander the ghats in search of shots in the morning light. Only to return to my room by 9am to escape the touts, the smells, and the stifling heat and humidity.

After a shower I’d lay on my bed, listening to the monkeys run across the roof while watching kids play cricket below my window. By 5pm it’d be cool enough to go out again for a few more hours.

Above all, it’s a place that teaches you how to handle difficulties and shows you something about yourself and about life and death. A sacred place that has also become one of the most toxic cities in India.

The question remains how can a place like this even exist? This is why we seek, to see and experience the world as it is, instead of what we want it to be…